Combination sport and dress shirt



Feb. 9, 1943. J. c. LEEDS COMBINATION SPORT AND DRESS SHIRT 2Shets-Sheet 1 Filed April 24, 1541 INVENTOR Jl/L E5 (1 L 405 BY MATTORNEYS WITNESS Feb. 9, 1943.

.1. c. LEEDS COMBINATION SPORT AND DRESS SHIRT Filed April 24, 1541 2Sheds-Sheet 2 INVENTOR James 6? Z5595 wim ESS ATTORNEYS Patented Feb. 9,1943 COMBINATION SPORT DRESS SHIRT Jules 0. Leeds, Deal, N. J., assignorto The Manhattan Shirt Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of NewYork Application April 24, 1941, Serial No. 390,023

3 Claims.

This invention relates to shirts, particularly mens and boys shirts,made of unstarched fabrics, with an attached collar, capable ofmanipulation in order that it can be utilized as a dress shirt or as asport shirt.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a plan view of the upper portion of a mansshirt; Fig. 2 a plan view of one of the pair of collar facings; Fig. 3 aplan view of the main lining or interlining blank; Fig. 4 a plan view ofthe fold-forming guide and support for the collar; Fig. 5 a plan view ofthe combined collar facings, the main lining and the fold-forming guidewith the latter two members exposed; Fig. 6 shows the elements of Fig.5, the collar having been turned to position the facings outwardly; Fig.'7 shows the folded collar in fiat position viewed from the turned-overportion; Fig. 8 is a section on the line 8--8 of Fig. 5; Fig. 9 asection on the line 9-9 of Fig. 6; and Fig. 10 a section on the lineIll--lll of Fig. 7.

The shirt consists of the usual body I, and a collar 2, which is thesubject-matter of this invention, stitched to the upper edge of the neckportion of the shirt. The collar is'made of two like fabric facings,each being of the shape and contour of the facing 3 of Fig. 2, and aninterlining 4 made of woven material, preferably of the type usuallyused in collars for mens shirts. The interlining has substantially thesame contour as the facings 3 and is cut to extend substantiallythroughout the entire length and width of the collar in order to lendbody to the whole of the collar. A special fold-forming guide 5 is cutfrom woven material, which may be of any approved type including thesame type of material of which the interlining 4 is made. Thisfold-forming guide is provided with a curved top edge, which need notnecessarily be a true arc of a circle, and a bottom edge of anyconvenient configuration, preferably substantially of the same contourof the portion of the lower edge of the interlining 4 which it isintended to overlie.

The fold-forming guide is superposed on the interlining with the edge 6of the interlining and the edge I of the fold-forming guidecoincidental. The interlining and the top edge of the foldforming guideare stitched together by a row of stitching 8. The facings 3 are thenunited by a series of stitching 9 to the interlining l, as illustratedin Fig. 5. The collar is then turned in order to position theinterlining 4 and the foldforming guide 5 between the two facings, asillustrated in Fig. 6. The highest point ID of the fold-forming guidelies slightly above a line drawn from the top edges of the collar tabsH, l2, and

'thefold-forming guide is cut to such size and so sewn to theinterlining that it will occupy this relation in the preferred practiceof this invention. Initially, when the fold-over portion i3 is turneddownwardly, the top edge or high point IU of the fold-forming guideforms the fold line and although the breaking point of the fold line isformed only at one restricted portion of the collar, the collar willnevertheless fold along this line entirely across from one tab H to theother tab l2. Inasmuch as the high point ID, in the preferred practiceof this invention, lies above a line drawn from the top edges of thetabs H, l2, the fold line of the collar will cause the collar to foldwith a continuous head from the point H to point I 5 of the collar,which bead stands above the top edge of the tabs ll, l2. In addition toforming the fold line, the fold-forming guide 5 also acts to retain theback portion of the collar in upright position but does not interferewith the colla-rs capacity of lying substantially flat in such portionsthereof as lie outside of the influence of the fold-forming guide.Consequently, when the collar is worn buttoned as a dress collar, thecombination of the fold-forming guide and the intersecured tabs I l andI2, causes the collar to stand upright. When, however, the shirt is tobe worn as a sport shirt, and the collar is unbuttoned, the portions ofthe collar beyond the edge of the foldforming guide can readily bespread outwardly, the back edge of the collar under the influence of thefold-forming guide standing substantially upright, as illustrated inFig. 1.

The foregoing description is intended as illustrative of this invention.It is to be understood that the position of the high point of thefoldforming guide determines the fold line. Should it not be desirous offorming the bead I4-l5 in the folded collar as prominently as thereillustrated, or should it be desirous of having the fold lie exactly inline with the top edges of the tabs II and 12, the high point isaccordingly dropped or lowered in order to lessen the prominence of thehead I 4 I5 or to substantially eliminate it. The high point l0 may bedropped or lowered by making the fold-forming guide 5 of less heightthan utilized in forming a bead of the character shown at I l-I5.

In order to bead the lower edge 16 of the foldover portion of thecollar, blind stitching I1 is formed to unite the turned in or hemmedportions of the inside facing of the collar and the turned in hem of theinterlining, as shown in Fig. 10, but does not extend through the outerfacing or the main portion of the lining lying therebeneath.

After the beading operation along the edge I6 is finished, theinterlining 4, the fold-forming guide 5, and the lower portion of theinner facing which serves as the band of the collar, are securedtogether by a line of stitching l 8 substantially parallel to the lineof stitching 8', which line of stitching I8 passes through these threesections of material (but not through the outer facing). When the collaris secured to the upper edge of the neck portion of the shirt, theportions of the interlining and the inner facing above the rows ofstitching 8 and I8 readily fold along the high point ID of thefold-forming guide but the portions below the said two lines ofstitching are supported by the guide 5 and secured aginst folding orbending independently of the guide 5.

Various changes in the contour of the foldforming guide may be made fromthe strictly curved configuration, provided the upper edge thereof has ahigh point and sloping sides which converge with the lower edge of thecollar well inside of the collar tabs H and I2.

I claim:

1. A shirt for use as a dress shirt or a sport shirt, said shirt havingan attached collar comprising outer and inner facings and an interlininghaving substantially the same configuration and cut to provideend tabsat the front of the collar, a fold-forming guide positioned in the lowercentral portion of the collar intermediate one of the facing layers andthe interlining and in spaced relation to said end tabs, said guide atthe longitudinal center of the collar being greater in width than thewidth of said end tabs and adapted, when the collar is worn as a dresscollar, to cooperate with said spaced end tabs to establish an uprightneckband portion around the entire collar and an overlying foldedportion whose width at the rear of the collar is determined by saidguide, the length of said guide being such that its ends terminate atpoints spaced sufficiently from said end tabs to enable the frontportions of the facings, when the collar is worn as a sport collar withthe tabs in spaced relation, to be spread readily outwardly into arelatively flat condition.

2. A shirt for use as a dress shirt or a sport shirt, said shirt havingan attached collar provided with end tabs at the front of the collar andconsisting of four pieces of fabric material, namely, an outer facinglayer, an interlining, an inner facing portion and a fold-formingportion positioned in the lower portion of the collar, said outer facinglayer being stitched to said three other pieces of fabric material byconcealed lines of stitches so that no connecting lines of stitchesappear along the side edges or body of such layer when the collar isturned down in the manner of sport collars, said fold-forming portion atthe longitudinal center of the collar being greater in width than thewidth of said end tabs and adapted, when the collar is worn as a dresscollar, to cooperate with such tabs to establish an upright neck portionaround the entire collar and an overlying folded portion whose width isdetermined by such fold-forming portion, and said fold-forming portionbeing adapted, when the collar is worn as a sport collar with the tabsin spaced relation, to enable the front portions of the outer facinglayer to be spread and unfolded into a relatively flat condition, and aline of stitches securing the top edge of said'foldforming portion tosaid inner facing portion adjacently below the line of fold of thecollar.

3. A shirt such as defined in claim 2, including a second line ofstitches securing the top edge of said fold-forming portions to saidinterlining, said second line of stitches as awhole extending lengthwiseof the collar and being spaced-from said first-mentioned line ofstitches and a third line of stitches positioned along the central,outer longitudinal edge portion of the collar and connecting said innerfacing portion to said interlining, said third line of stitches notextending through the outer facing layer and terminating short of theends of the collar.

JULES C. LEEDS.

